Barre de torsion
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Barre de torsion
par filou011 » 10 Mar 2006 05:12
Quelqu'un peut m'expliquer comment fonctionne une barre de torsion?
Quand je vais à la pêche, je mets mon petit moteur Honda dans la valise de ma Sienna. Avec la Tr, les bagages, le poisson quand je reviens... j'ai le derrière un peu bas... On me raconte que je devrais dépenser 500$ pour installer une barre torsion.
Comment ça marche?
Quand je vais à la pêche, je mets mon petit moteur Honda dans la valise de ma Sienna. Avec la Tr, les bagages, le poisson quand je reviens... j'ai le derrière un peu bas... On me raconte que je devrais dépenser 500$ pour installer une barre torsion.
Comment ça marche?
Robert
Sienna 2004
Flagstaff 176ED 2000
Sienna 2004
Flagstaff 176ED 2000
- Pursuit
- Membre Émérite du Forum VRcamping
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Re: Barre de torsion
par Pursuit » 10 Mar 2006 05:35
filou011 a écrit:Quelqu'un peut m'expliquer comment fonctionne une barre de torsion?
Quand je vais à la pêche, je mets mon petit moteur Honda dans la valise de ma Sienna. Avec la Tr, les bagages, le poisson quand je reviens... j'ai le derrière un peu bas... On me raconte que je devrais dépenser 500$ pour installer une barre torsion.
Comment ça marche?
Pour ton derrière un peu bas filou tu peux prendre une chaise un peu plus haute ou bien est-ce le poissons qui ajoute au poids... histoire de pêche
Sylvain,
Pursuit 2003 35 pieds (Los Nomadès)
Pursuit 2003 35 pieds (Los Nomadès)
par Le pic » 10 Mar 2006 06:47
Hitch Setup
There are many different brands of weight distribution (WD) hitches, but the basic setup
process is similar. Outlined below are the steps you will need to follow to ensure that
your WD hitch is set up correctly. Should you change tow vehicles or trailers in the
future you will want to do this again to make sure it is set up for the new tow vehicle or
trailer.
These instructions are somewhat generic. You should consult the manufacturer?s
instructions for additional information and exact assembly instructions.
Instructions for Reese/Draw-tite hitches can be found at:
http://65.196.229.70/pdf/N3201.pdf
Instructions for the Dual-cam can be found at:
http://www.reeseprod.com/support/suppor ... 6000IN.pdf
Instructions for Eaz-lift hitches can be found at: http://www.eaz-lift.com/EAZLIFT.pdf
The purpose of a weight distribution hitch is to remove some of the weight added to the
tow vehicle?s rear axle and place some of it on the tow vehicle?s front axle and some on
the trailer axles. When properly set up, the trailer should be level and the tow vehicle has
settled (or squatted) evenly front to rear or slightly lower in the rear.
For optimum performance of the weight distribution hitch, the tow vehicle should be
loaded similarly as to when you would be towing. That means that you should load all
the people and cargo into the tow vehicle as if you were going on a trip with your trailer.
You may want to do this near your home so that your family doesn?t have to sit in the
tow vehicle while you take measurements and make adjustments. It may also help to
have a friend take the measurements outlined below, or find a friend that weighs about
the same as you to simulate you in the tow vehicle while you take the measurements.
If the tow vehicle has an automatic suspension leveling system, you will need to
deactivate it before coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle, but after and passenger or
cargo weight has been added.
Hitch setup 1
Step 1 Level the trailer.
Find a level piece of pavement to park on for awhile (this may take some time). With the
trailer disconnected from the tow vehicle, use a tape measure and the tongue jack to level
the trailer. Measure from the ground to some part on the trailer (like the frame) at the
front and at the rear of the trailer. Use the tongue jack to raise or lower the front of the
trailer until it is parallel to the ground. (The trailer may not be ?level??, but it needs to be
parallel to the ground.)
Step 2 Measurements.
Now that you have the trailer level, it?s time to take some measurements on both the
trailer and the tow vehicle. Use a piece of tape to mark each spot because you will need
to take the measurements again later. Put a piece of tape at the spots you measured on
the trailer to get it parallel to the ground. Put a piece of tape at the top of the front and
rear wheel openings on one side
Write down your measurements here:
Tow vehicle front wheel opening height:
Tow vehicle rear wheel opening height:
Front of trailer height:
Rear of trailer height:
Measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler and write down the
measurement here: ________
Step 3 The hitch assembly.
There are usually three separate parts to the hitch assembly:
The shank. This part is what slides into the receiver on the tow vehicle and is usually in
the shape of an ?L?? or a ?T??.
The hitch head. This bolts onto the shank and is usually adjustable in height and angle.
The ball. This attaches to the hitch head.
Hitch setup 2
I would suggest that you have an RV dealer or auto repair facility attach the ball to the
hitch head because they will usually have the proper tools to do this. The nuts and bolts
used to attach the hitch head to the shank are usually pretty large. If you don?t already
have the right tools, I suggest getting 2 adjustable wrenches to do the job. If the hitch
assembly is already put together, you may need an RV dealer or auto repair facility to
loosen the bolts that attach the hitch head to the shank.
With the tow vehicle near the trailer, slide the shank into the receiver, insert the retaining
pin and safety clip. Position the hitch head so that the ball height is slightly higher than
the measurement you took of the trailer coupler. Many brands suggest 1/16?? per 100
pounds of tongue weight (1/8?? per 100 pounds for light duty trucks or cars). If you don?t
know the exact tongue weight (from a scale), look for the tongue weight on the weight
sticker on the inside of a cabinet inside the trailer. Close is usually good enough. When
in doubt, set the ball higher than the coupler.
The angle of the hitch head is usually adjustable. Start with a setting somewhere near the
middle of the available range. This is the part that may need to be adjusted again later
depending on the final outcome. When you put the spring bars (sometimes called torsion
bars) into the hitch head and pointed in the direction of the trailer, the ends of the bars
should angle down towards the ground slightly. You can go ahead and try this now, but
remove the bars before continuing to the next step.
Tighten all nuts and bolts before proceeding to the next step.
Step 4 Hitch it up.
Raise the trailer tongue so the ball can fit underneath when backing the tow vehicle so the
ball can be positioned underneath the coupler. Lower the trailer tongue until the coupler
comes to rest on the top of the ball without putting much weight on the hitch and the
coupler latch can be locked in place.
Using the tongue jack, raise (or lower) the front of the trailer until it is level again. Insert
the spring bars into the hitch head and swing the other ends towards the trailer. With the
saddles in their upright position. Lift up on the chain so it is close to the saddle. Lift up
firmly on the chain and mark the chain link that is below the saddle. You will use this
link as a starting point for hooking into the saddles.
Use the tongue jack to raise the trailer tongue about 2??. Remove the retaining clip and
lower the saddles, insert the desired link into the saddle, raise the saddle back up to its
vertical position using the removable handle/bar and insert the retaining clip. Use caution
when raising the saddle back to vertical. Excessive pressure could cause the saddle to act
as a sling-shot with the handle/bar. If you don?t have the strength to lift the saddle back
to vertical, raise the trailer tongue a bit more and try again.
Hitch setup 3
The end goal is to have the spring bars reasonably close to parallel to the trailer tongue.
This may require one or more chain links dangling loose from the end, and may require
that you use the tongue jack to raise the tongue slightly to accomplish this. Make sure the
coupler is locked in place to the ball before raising the trailer tongue.
With both spring bars attached, chains snapped up and retaining clips in place, lower the
trailer tongue so that all its weight is on the hitch and the tongue jack is not resting on the
ground.
Step 5 Measure again.
Take the same measurements you did earlier and compare them to the originals.
The ?ideal?? result is that the trailer sits level front to rear, the tow vehicle squats (lowers)
a bit in the front (but not much), and the tow vehicle squats 1??-2?? in the rear (depending
on total tongue weight).
If the ideal result has not been obtained, don?t worry, it rarely happens on the first try.
Depending on where things are not ideal will determine where you need to make the
adjustments.
Troubleshooting
Let?s start with the tow vehicle.
A. Does the tow vehicle squat correctly (a little or none in the front and the same or a
little more in the rear)?
If yes, move on to D.
If not, go on to B.
B. Is the front of the tow vehicle higher with the trailer attached than it was without the
trailer attached.
If not, move on to C.
If yes, there is probably not enough tension on the spring bars. You will need to increase
the angle of the hitch head according to the manufacturers methods. After making the
Hitch setup 4
adjustment, re-measure and start again at A. If this does not correct the problem, it may
also be necessary to raise the hitch head on the shank.
C. Does the rear of the tow vehicle drop more than 1??-2?? with the trailer attached?
If not, move on to D.
If so, there is probably not enough tension on the spring bars. You will need to increase
the angle of the hitch head according to the manufacturers methods. After making the
adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.
D. Are the spring bars close to parallel to the trailer tongue/frame (or adjusted according
to the manufacturer?s specifications)?
If so, move on to E.
If not, you need to adjust the angle of the hitch head accordingly. Make the adjustment,
re-measure and start again at A.
E. Is the trailer parallel to the ground or slightly lower in the front than the rear?
If so, this should do it, but check out G below (just in case).
If not, move on to E.
F. Is the trailer higher in the front than the rear?
If not, move on to G.
If so, you need to lower the ball by lowering the hitch head on the shank. If you have
gotten this far, that means the tow vehicle is sitting reasonably well, but lowering the ball
may change things. While making the height adjustment, also reduce the angle of the
hitch head. Re-measure and start again at A.
G. Since you?ve gotten this far, the front of the trailer must be sitting lower than the rear,
so here is the final question??
Hitch setup 5
Is the height of the hitch head adjustable by less than the difference in height between the
front and rear of the trailer?
Now that may sound confusing so let me give you an example. If the trailer is 2?? lower
in the front than the rear and the hitch head can be adjusted in 1-1/2?? increments, then
you need to make that adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.
But if the trailer is only 1?? lower in the front than the rear and the hitch head can be
adjusted in 1-1/2?? increments, then that?s it!
With all of the different adjustments you can make, it may be difficult to find the right
combination of hitch head height and angle. You may find yourself taking it apart and
putting it back together a dozen times until you find the right combination. Make good
notes as you make your adjustments so if you make a change and it makes things worse
instead of better, you may need to make a different type of adjustment.
Congratulations!!! You have successfully set up your weight distribution hitch.
Ps: Je m'excuse pour l'anglais, mais je suis trop lâche pour traduire...
There are many different brands of weight distribution (WD) hitches, but the basic setup
process is similar. Outlined below are the steps you will need to follow to ensure that
your WD hitch is set up correctly. Should you change tow vehicles or trailers in the
future you will want to do this again to make sure it is set up for the new tow vehicle or
trailer.
These instructions are somewhat generic. You should consult the manufacturer?s
instructions for additional information and exact assembly instructions.
Instructions for Reese/Draw-tite hitches can be found at:
http://65.196.229.70/pdf/N3201.pdf
Instructions for the Dual-cam can be found at:
http://www.reeseprod.com/support/suppor ... 6000IN.pdf
Instructions for Eaz-lift hitches can be found at: http://www.eaz-lift.com/EAZLIFT.pdf
The purpose of a weight distribution hitch is to remove some of the weight added to the
tow vehicle?s rear axle and place some of it on the tow vehicle?s front axle and some on
the trailer axles. When properly set up, the trailer should be level and the tow vehicle has
settled (or squatted) evenly front to rear or slightly lower in the rear.
For optimum performance of the weight distribution hitch, the tow vehicle should be
loaded similarly as to when you would be towing. That means that you should load all
the people and cargo into the tow vehicle as if you were going on a trip with your trailer.
You may want to do this near your home so that your family doesn?t have to sit in the
tow vehicle while you take measurements and make adjustments. It may also help to
have a friend take the measurements outlined below, or find a friend that weighs about
the same as you to simulate you in the tow vehicle while you take the measurements.
If the tow vehicle has an automatic suspension leveling system, you will need to
deactivate it before coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle, but after and passenger or
cargo weight has been added.
Hitch setup 1
Step 1 Level the trailer.
Find a level piece of pavement to park on for awhile (this may take some time). With the
trailer disconnected from the tow vehicle, use a tape measure and the tongue jack to level
the trailer. Measure from the ground to some part on the trailer (like the frame) at the
front and at the rear of the trailer. Use the tongue jack to raise or lower the front of the
trailer until it is parallel to the ground. (The trailer may not be ?level??, but it needs to be
parallel to the ground.)
Step 2 Measurements.
Now that you have the trailer level, it?s time to take some measurements on both the
trailer and the tow vehicle. Use a piece of tape to mark each spot because you will need
to take the measurements again later. Put a piece of tape at the spots you measured on
the trailer to get it parallel to the ground. Put a piece of tape at the top of the front and
rear wheel openings on one side
Write down your measurements here:
Tow vehicle front wheel opening height:
Tow vehicle rear wheel opening height:
Front of trailer height:
Rear of trailer height:
Measure from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler and write down the
measurement here: ________
Step 3 The hitch assembly.
There are usually three separate parts to the hitch assembly:
The shank. This part is what slides into the receiver on the tow vehicle and is usually in
the shape of an ?L?? or a ?T??.
The hitch head. This bolts onto the shank and is usually adjustable in height and angle.
The ball. This attaches to the hitch head.
Hitch setup 2
I would suggest that you have an RV dealer or auto repair facility attach the ball to the
hitch head because they will usually have the proper tools to do this. The nuts and bolts
used to attach the hitch head to the shank are usually pretty large. If you don?t already
have the right tools, I suggest getting 2 adjustable wrenches to do the job. If the hitch
assembly is already put together, you may need an RV dealer or auto repair facility to
loosen the bolts that attach the hitch head to the shank.
With the tow vehicle near the trailer, slide the shank into the receiver, insert the retaining
pin and safety clip. Position the hitch head so that the ball height is slightly higher than
the measurement you took of the trailer coupler. Many brands suggest 1/16?? per 100
pounds of tongue weight (1/8?? per 100 pounds for light duty trucks or cars). If you don?t
know the exact tongue weight (from a scale), look for the tongue weight on the weight
sticker on the inside of a cabinet inside the trailer. Close is usually good enough. When
in doubt, set the ball higher than the coupler.
The angle of the hitch head is usually adjustable. Start with a setting somewhere near the
middle of the available range. This is the part that may need to be adjusted again later
depending on the final outcome. When you put the spring bars (sometimes called torsion
bars) into the hitch head and pointed in the direction of the trailer, the ends of the bars
should angle down towards the ground slightly. You can go ahead and try this now, but
remove the bars before continuing to the next step.
Tighten all nuts and bolts before proceeding to the next step.
Step 4 Hitch it up.
Raise the trailer tongue so the ball can fit underneath when backing the tow vehicle so the
ball can be positioned underneath the coupler. Lower the trailer tongue until the coupler
comes to rest on the top of the ball without putting much weight on the hitch and the
coupler latch can be locked in place.
Using the tongue jack, raise (or lower) the front of the trailer until it is level again. Insert
the spring bars into the hitch head and swing the other ends towards the trailer. With the
saddles in their upright position. Lift up on the chain so it is close to the saddle. Lift up
firmly on the chain and mark the chain link that is below the saddle. You will use this
link as a starting point for hooking into the saddles.
Use the tongue jack to raise the trailer tongue about 2??. Remove the retaining clip and
lower the saddles, insert the desired link into the saddle, raise the saddle back up to its
vertical position using the removable handle/bar and insert the retaining clip. Use caution
when raising the saddle back to vertical. Excessive pressure could cause the saddle to act
as a sling-shot with the handle/bar. If you don?t have the strength to lift the saddle back
to vertical, raise the trailer tongue a bit more and try again.
Hitch setup 3
The end goal is to have the spring bars reasonably close to parallel to the trailer tongue.
This may require one or more chain links dangling loose from the end, and may require
that you use the tongue jack to raise the tongue slightly to accomplish this. Make sure the
coupler is locked in place to the ball before raising the trailer tongue.
With both spring bars attached, chains snapped up and retaining clips in place, lower the
trailer tongue so that all its weight is on the hitch and the tongue jack is not resting on the
ground.
Step 5 Measure again.
Take the same measurements you did earlier and compare them to the originals.
The ?ideal?? result is that the trailer sits level front to rear, the tow vehicle squats (lowers)
a bit in the front (but not much), and the tow vehicle squats 1??-2?? in the rear (depending
on total tongue weight).
If the ideal result has not been obtained, don?t worry, it rarely happens on the first try.
Depending on where things are not ideal will determine where you need to make the
adjustments.
Troubleshooting
Let?s start with the tow vehicle.
A. Does the tow vehicle squat correctly (a little or none in the front and the same or a
little more in the rear)?
If yes, move on to D.
If not, go on to B.
B. Is the front of the tow vehicle higher with the trailer attached than it was without the
trailer attached.
If not, move on to C.
If yes, there is probably not enough tension on the spring bars. You will need to increase
the angle of the hitch head according to the manufacturers methods. After making the
Hitch setup 4
adjustment, re-measure and start again at A. If this does not correct the problem, it may
also be necessary to raise the hitch head on the shank.
C. Does the rear of the tow vehicle drop more than 1??-2?? with the trailer attached?
If not, move on to D.
If so, there is probably not enough tension on the spring bars. You will need to increase
the angle of the hitch head according to the manufacturers methods. After making the
adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.
D. Are the spring bars close to parallel to the trailer tongue/frame (or adjusted according
to the manufacturer?s specifications)?
If so, move on to E.
If not, you need to adjust the angle of the hitch head accordingly. Make the adjustment,
re-measure and start again at A.
E. Is the trailer parallel to the ground or slightly lower in the front than the rear?
If so, this should do it, but check out G below (just in case).
If not, move on to E.
F. Is the trailer higher in the front than the rear?
If not, move on to G.
If so, you need to lower the ball by lowering the hitch head on the shank. If you have
gotten this far, that means the tow vehicle is sitting reasonably well, but lowering the ball
may change things. While making the height adjustment, also reduce the angle of the
hitch head. Re-measure and start again at A.
G. Since you?ve gotten this far, the front of the trailer must be sitting lower than the rear,
so here is the final question??
Hitch setup 5
Is the height of the hitch head adjustable by less than the difference in height between the
front and rear of the trailer?
Now that may sound confusing so let me give you an example. If the trailer is 2?? lower
in the front than the rear and the hitch head can be adjusted in 1-1/2?? increments, then
you need to make that adjustment, re-measure and start again at A.
But if the trailer is only 1?? lower in the front than the rear and the hitch head can be
adjusted in 1-1/2?? increments, then that?s it!
With all of the different adjustments you can make, it may be difficult to find the right
combination of hitch head height and angle. You may find yourself taking it apart and
putting it back together a dozen times until you find the right combination. Make good
notes as you make your adjustments so if you make a change and it makes things worse
instead of better, you may need to make a different type of adjustment.
Congratulations!!! You have successfully set up your weight distribution hitch.
Ps: Je m'excuse pour l'anglais, mais je suis trop lâche pour traduire...
- martin_lapierre
- Membre Initié(e) du Forum VRcamping
- Messages: 480
- Inscrit le: 02 Fév 2006 00:12
par martin_lapierre » 10 Mar 2006 07:02
...
Dernière édition par martin_lapierre le 05 Fév 2007 00:17, édité 1 fois au total.
- Alain Rheault
par Alain Rheault » 10 Mar 2006 09:18
Si ton pickup a des LeafSprings , une ou deux lames d'appoint! qui ne servent que lorsque le derriere du véhicule descend d'une certaine hauteur! c'est bien, j'ai ca sur le mien quand je "charrie" du bois ou de la terre!
Le fait que ces lames ne sont pas toujours a l'ouvrage, ton pickup porte pas trop dur quand il n'y a pas de poids mais deviens plus "suporté" quand le poids commence a faire baisser le derriere!
Le pic..
Maudits bons PDF c'est plein de graphiques, instructions et décrivent bien le matériel.
Les PDF files selon moi aurait suffies!! c'est long en titi ces textes anglais sur notre site Franco! Un ou deux paragraphes (plus une petie traduction) ca passe.. mais deux pages!!! je me serait cru au forum GoodSam!
Le fait que ces lames ne sont pas toujours a l'ouvrage, ton pickup porte pas trop dur quand il n'y a pas de poids mais deviens plus "suporté" quand le poids commence a faire baisser le derriere!
Le pic..
Maudits bons PDF c'est plein de graphiques, instructions et décrivent bien le matériel.
Les PDF files selon moi aurait suffies!! c'est long en titi ces textes anglais sur notre site Franco! Un ou deux paragraphes (plus une petie traduction) ca passe.. mais deux pages!!! je me serait cru au forum GoodSam!
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